surf report

day 26: surfed snapper tonight with the start of a new south swell. the waves were really good with sets head high and long fast rights going for 200+ yards. i got my best wave of the trip so far as well as the longest wave of my life. i rode a right from snapper to the middle of greenmount beach, only about 100 yards away from the kirra jetty. i took four different breaks on this one wave to let my thighs stop burning.

day 25: dealt with the car all day again today, it has been quite a process. we surfed in surfers paradise while we waited on the car. the waves were waist to chest high and glassy. we both got one good right each. the conditions were eerily reminiscent of boardwalk, not the most exciting session of the trip.

day 24: onshore wind in the morning. waves were large with victory at sea conditions. we had to bring the car to the shop in southport and deal with that again all day. the waves cleaned up in the afternoon but we didnt surf. we had too much drama with the car to chase the dream today. got pulled over for my first RBT(random breath test) today, no worries mate.

day 23: gale force onshore winds and torrential rain all day. Brisbane had more rainfall today than any day in the last 123 years! no surfing today.

day 22: we longboarded greenmount all morning. it was small and perfect with hardly anyone out. we both got tons of waves. Kristen went surfing at greenmount in the afternoon.

day 21: the south swell continued to pick up and coolangatta was really good. snapper to greenmount were running chest to head high and offshore. sunday is so crowded on the points that we decided to rent longboards and join in the circus. we actually paddled them from our beach in north kirra to the top of the point in snapper. it was a lot farther than it looked and that was the first and last time for that. when we finally made it to the point we were catching perfect chest high rights for a 100+ yards. all the weekend warriors were pissed as we sat out farther than everyone and caught every set, it was delightfully selfish.

day twenty: we went and explored a little ways south. we surfed a really fun right point break about a half and hour south of here. the waves were clean and running about head high. we didnt surf too long as we had the girls on the beach in a cold wind, but we both caught some long rippable rights.

day nineteen: i didnt surf today because i strained my back and the waves were not really worth the pain. i filmed Tommy for a while and there were some perfect waist high waves coming in at duranbah. the weather was perfect again.