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Wednesday, July 28, 2010

surf report

sorry for the delay.

day one: we did not surf although the waves were waist to chest high "duranbah" perfection. crystal clear water, 68 degrees, not too crowded, light offshore winds. it was about as good as fl gets, we were too discombobulated to notice
day two: same as above, actually a little smaller, still we have not surfed. we walked around the mall and grocery, trying to get things done, still disconnected..
day three: waves are goood this morning, bower(pronounced BOWA!!) and I get our first australian barrels.. feels good..yeaahhh, no worries..still the waves are waist to head+, glassy, crystal water, and 68 degree, sorry boys
day four: repeat of day three, another great day for surfing, also very busy with the car hunt, internet connected via "THE OPTUS," we all bow before it, shock and awe...also, we surf with Occy this morning, the former 2000 world champ paddled up next to BOWA!! and gave him a nod complete with a megaman face. we saw him get some great tubes with his mullet dragging effortlessly thru the back of the barrel. we also got our best barrels so far. crystal clear water with perfect a-frame beachbreak, chest to head+, also traded in the kia minivan and picked up the rent-a-bomb, thanks Rob- you're fired!!
day five: got up 6am, went to dbah early, perfect chest to head+ with a beautiful sunrise, much larger crowd with the weekend approaching, lots of dolphin in the water, beautiful but scary when they come out of nowhere
day six: byron bay day, great time in the town, no surfing in the morning, lots of taking it in, the bomb was no problem, went and surfed dbah in the afternoon with bow filming. got a few closeout barrels, some are posted below
day seven: lots of folks at the beach side grills, there are nice facilities all along the beaches and they are put to good use, sunday is a funday around here and we are taking part. bow and i surf at debby again in the morning. the waves cont to be waist to chest+ and perfect, we have been catching some very fun surf, especially by our standards, but the waves are still bad by local standards...we have a fun afternoon and drink wine
day eight:did not surf in the morning, had to meet rent a bomb about the car followed up with the worst session to date, we surfed dbah in the afternoon, sideshore wind, about waist to chest and almost perfectly closed out. we actually got some fun ones by fl standards but definitely fell victim to the afternoon se winds and the low tide...also the water was colder
day nine: we had another really good session at dbah today, it was chest to head+ and perfectly clean. much more peaky than it has been, lots of well groomed barrels and clean lines. the water is a perfect temp and you can see clear to the bottom in 8ft of water.
day ten: no surf today, terrible weather came in, ate an american sized breakfast at "pancakes in paradise," finally i am rained all day making the coolangata creek swollen, the waves actually looked very fun by home standards but we had to deal with the falcoon all day, finally got it all sorted out with bow having the title and me having the bill of sale?? the wind has just died and tomorrow is looking up

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